A few hours outside of Bangkok is the wonderful Khao Yai National Park. My wife and I took a three-day trip there to celebrate the end of our year in Thailand. I had been looking forward to this for a long time and planned it with the help of several fellow herp enthusiasts. Conditions weren’t perfect and difficulties cropped up, but the trip was awesome.

After taking a bus to Pak Chong, a songthaw to the entrance station, and hitchhiking to the visitor center on the back of pickup bed, we were in Khao Yai. My wife and I had planned to camp, but it rained much of the day and she didn’t want to spend the night soaked. Instead, we got space in the dorm for very cheap – no furnishings, but it kept us dry. Since it was a weekday and the rainy season, park accommodations were almost empty. That was good for wildlife visibility, and all the following were all seen right among the cabins and dorms.

Northern pig tailed macaque (Macaca leonina) khao yai thailand
Northern pig tailed macaque (Macaca leonina)
barking deer Muntiacus muntjak khao yai dorms thailand
Barking deer (Muntiacus muntjak)

sambar deer Rusa unicolor khao yai dorms thailand
Sambar deer (Rusa unicolor)
sambar deer Rusa unicolor khao yai dorms thailand
Sambar deer (Rusa unicolor)

Black Giant Squirrels Ratufa bicolor khao yai dorms thailand
Black Giant Squirrels (Ratufa bicolor)
Variable Squirrel (Callosciurus finlaysonii) khao yai thailand
Variable Squirrel (Callosciurus finlaysonii)

One night I tested the theory that porcupines liked to hang around dorm trash. My wife and I were alone in our dorm complex, so I went to the back of the other dorm that had more people in it. At 9:45pm I peeked around the corner of their building, and sure enough:

Malayan Porcupines Hystrix brachyura khao yai dorms thailand
Malayan Porcupines (Hystrix brachyura)

The next night I decided to set up a simple trap so my wife could see the porcupines she had missed the night before. All it took was a bit of food trash surrounded by empty water bottles on a bench in front of our window. We went to sleep, and at midnight we were woken by crashing water bottles. The surprised porcupine scurried off immediately after I snapped these photos:

Malayan Porcupines Hystrix brachyura khao yai dorms thailand

I was happy to see that though the mammals weren’t very afraid of humans, they also weren’t “pet-like” and didn’t approach us for food from our hands. If you got too close they moved away. There were signs insisting that the animals not be fed and some threatened fines. This was my first National Park experience in Thailand, and I found the attitude towards wildlife to be more respectful and natural than some of the tourist-centered animal attractions I’d been in Thailand.

Unfortunately, one hazard of the area is leeches. Lots, and lots, and lots of leeches.

leeches khao yai dorms thailand
leeches khao yai dorms thailand

I hadn’t known anything about their behavior – how they move along the ground like inchworms, advance towards you when they feel your vibrations coming, reach up trying to grab you when you walk by. There are few things creepier than watching leeches close in from all directions the second you stop moving. On the plus side, you usually notice them before they bite, their bites don’t hurt much, they don’t itch much afterwards, and they don’t carry any diseases that I know of.

The frequent rain meant a lot of leeches were active, but it was also great for frogs. Quite a few species could be found near the accommodations and the surrounding forest and ponds.

Microhylids in particular were common and diverse.

Berdmore's Narrowmouth Frog Microhyla berdmorei
Berdmore’s Narrowmouth Frog (Microhyla berdmorei)
Berdmore's Narrowmouth Frog Microhyla berdmorei
Berdmore’s Narrowmouth Frog (Microhyla berdmorei)
Mukhlesur’s Narrowmouth Frog Microhyla mukhlesuri khao yai thailand
Mukhlesur’s Narrowmouth Frog (Microhyla mukhlesuri)
Darkside Narrowmouth Frog Microhyla heymonsi khao yai thailand
Darkside Narrowmouth Frog (Microhyla hemonsi)
Painted Narrowmouth Frog Microhyla pulchra khao yai thailand
Painted Narrowmouth Frog (Microhyla pulchra)

There was also quite a mix of other species. All of these frogs were found around the dorm or in the ditches on the nearest road:

Sapgreen Stream Frog Hylarana nigrovittata dark-sided frog
Dark-sided Frog (Sylvirana nigrovittata)
Sapgreen Stream Frog Hylarana nigrovittata dark-sided frog
juvenile Dark-sided Frog (Sylvirana nigrovittata)
 Brown Treefrog (Polypedates megacephalus)  khao yai thailand
Brown Treefrog (Polypedates megacephalus)
Round-tongued Floating Frog Occidozyga martensii khao yai thailand
Round-tongued Floating Frog (Occidozyga martensii)
Gyldenstolpe's Frog Limnonectes gyldenstolpei
Gyldenstolpe’s Frog Limnonectes gyldenstolpei
Paddy Frog Fejervarya limnocharis
Asian Grass Frog (Fejervarya limnocharis)
Common Indian Toad Duttaphrynus melanostictus Common Indian Toad khao yai thailand
Common Indian Toad (Duttaphrynus melanostictus)

Our dorm at night had lights which attracted a lot of insects:

Which in turn attracted an array of geckos:

Common Parachute Gecko Ptychozoon lionotum flying gecko khao yai thailand
Flying Gecko (Ptychozoon lionotum)
Cardamon Bow-fingered Gecko Cyrtodactylus intermedius khao yai thailand
Intermediate Bow-fingered Gecko (Cyrtodactylus intermedius)
Stub-toed Gecko Gehyra mutilata stump-toed gecko khao yai thailand
Stump-toed Gecko (Gehyra mutilata)

How spectacular is it that you can see that array of mammals, frogs, and geckos without even leaving the area of the dorms! Of course, the fact that we came during the rainy season was a big plus – some animals tend to be more active during the rainy season, and having virtually no other visitors around meant that those animals were probably coming closer to the dorms than usual.

Still, there were plenty of species that we were only going to find if we got out and started looking in the deeper forest. That’s what I’ll share next.